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Not So Rough Guide To Travel In Laos

Wednesday, December 15, 2010 11:44 PM Posted by Andy Subandono

By Philip Gurnhill

My View

Although I have been to Laos on many occasions, its poor infrastructure means that I have limited my exploits to Luang Prabang (for a couple of days) and the capital Vientiane.

After the rigours and commercialisation of Thailand Laos is a breath of fresh air.You can get to Laos by air, from Bangkok however it is far more preferable and a lot more fun to enter via the Friendship Bridge from Nong Khai.Nong Khai is a typical border town full of chancers, smugglers, illegals and general lowlife; in short it is great fun. Worth a visit just for the giant catfish served by the restaurants dotted along the Mekong.Many travel agents in Nong Khai will arrange a visa for you. Last time I was there they were charging about 20 dollars, for this they arranged the visa and you got a lift across the bridge and were met by a taxi the other side for the short journey into Vientiane. You can organise it for yourself, but it is a long walk across the bridge and a scrum the other side to get transport, be civilised spend the $20.

Vientiane

Laos has none of the nightlife of Thailand, you will be lucky to find anything open after 11 at night, the places still open you would not want to go to anyway. Before 11 there is plenty to do, the restaurants are simply superb, with a colonial mix of French, Thai and Laos fusioned together.In the centre of Vientiane are many good bars most which serve food and all serving the excellent beer Laos on draft. Expect to pay less than a dollar for a pint of this nectar. Vientiane lies on the banks of the Mekong opposite Nong Khai.

The Mekong at this point is about ½ a mile across and an early evening drink at one of the riverside bars watching the sunset is definitely in order.If you need to communicate a Thai sim card will work if you stay near the river, telecoms in Laos are not good. Up market accommodation is available in Laos, but for some reason I always gravitate to the Lane Xang hotel. It actually has very decent public area, a reasonable and clean pool and nice bar. Unfortunately the rooms seem to have been transplanted from 1960s Russia!!!! Enough said about that.One fascinating aspect of this hotel is the coffee shop that is attached to the side, it may or may not sell coffee but it most certainly is not a coffee shop. You can drink here till the small hours and it is quite good fun in its own way. On my few visits there English is not spoken by anyone, so sign language is the order of the day. It appears not to matter what you want to do there you have to do it with a female bodyguard who is plonked down next to you and pours your drink (still cheap) constantly. The Government is very strict on the type of establishments allowed, it makes a refreshing change to go into a bar alone and not be harassed by the bar girls. From what I can gather the girls there are dancing partners, the music is eclectic and the preferred method of dancing is the waltz. Most of the customers are Laotian and many single women go there who receive the same bodyguard treatment from a girl and dance the waltz with them all night.It is friendly enough and safe but it always seems that everyone in there knows something that I don't (and I am not naive) When in Laos check it out.

Getting around Vientiane is best done on foot although the strange Samlors (three wheel motorbike taxis) will ferry you farther afield, be sure to bargain hard, all samlor drivers will juice you given a chance

Talking of being juiced, the local money is the Kip, there are roughly 20,000 of the d***things to the pound (10,000 = 1 US$) Expect to go to a good restaurant, eat and drink merrily and get presented with a bill for 70 odd thousand. An evening out means a huge wedge of cash to be dragged about, fortunately Thai Baht are widely accepted and greatly appreciated so take plenty of them, they are more manageable. As with a lot of places in SE Asia ATMs are not available, hotel receptions change cash.

Maybe due to the lack of exposure to western culture, or more likely due to a pretty oppressive Government, Laos is very safe, common sense will keep you OK within the confines of Vientiane, outside you may be taking a risk, not least from the landmine problem which still causes casualtiesA must see is the 6 pm Government run exercise area, hundreds of people do synchronized stretching to awful military music blaring from loud speakers. This site to behold is a daily occurrence on the river front. Participation by tourists is voluntary (I think)

Luang Prabang

Can be reached by air, or overland for masochists. Great for temple hounds, not my cup of tea although the temples are impressive, limited quantities of beer Laos and a nightlife that makes Vientiane look like Bangkok. Info can be found at

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luang_Prabang

Enough of the cultural stuff, next stop The Philippines

If you enjoyed reading my article and are interested in a travel business oppoortunity, please visit my website at

http://www.gcl-travel.com/

Thanks

Phil

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